Create a simple skincare routine for yourself. We will explain the correct order of cleansing, moisturizing, sun protection, and active ingredients, as well as common mistakes.
A good skincare routine doesn't have to consist of many products. For most people, a basic routine includes appropriate cleansing for their skin, a moisturizer, and sun protection when needed. Serums, exfoliants, and other active ingredients are added one by one, according to a specific goal. A suitable routine does not leave the skin persistently dry, stinging, or red after use and is simple enough to be followed consistently.
The selection of skincare products has become very vast. Toners, essences, concentrates, oils, acids, masks, and multi-ingredient serums are all available. With such a selection, it's easy to feel that a long list of products must be used morning and evening to maintain healthy skin.
The skin does not count the number of products used. It reacts to how products affect the skin's protective barrier, moisture level, and irritability.
The foundation of effective skincare is usually much simpler: the skin needs to be cleansed as necessary, kept adequately moisturized, and protected from excessive ultraviolet radiation. All other products should serve a clear purpose.
This guide primarily addresses the daily cosmetic care of healthy adult skin. Acne, rosacea, atopic dermatitis, contact allergies, and other skin conditions may require a separate treatment plan.
Why does skin need care at all?
The outermost part of the skin, the stratum corneum, forms an important protective barrier. It consists of keratinized cells and the lipid matrix located between them. Important lipids include ceramides, cholesterol, and free fatty acids.
This structure helps limit excessive water loss and reduces the penetration of irritating substances and microorganisms into the deeper layers of the skin.
However, the skin's protective barrier is not an immutable wall. It is affected by:
- weather and humidity.
- washing habits.
- water temperature.
- age.
- skin diseases.
- cleansing and care products used.
Overly strong or too frequent cleansing can remove some lipids from the skin's surface, making the skin drier and more sensitive. At the same time, an overly rich or poorly tolerated care product can cause discomfort, clogged pores, or irritation.
The goal of a good routine is not to constantly change the skin. The goal is to maintain the normal functioning of the skin and address one or two actual needs.
What are the basic components of a skincare routine?
Most people's basic routine consists of three parts: cleansing; moisturizing; UV protection when sun exposure requires it.
Serums, exfoliants, retinoids, and other active ingredients are optional. They can be beneficial but do not replace the basic routine.
Cleansing removes what has accumulated on the skin
The purpose of cleansing is to remove makeup, sunscreen residue, sweat, excess sebum, and environmental impurities from the skin.
Cleansing does not have to leave the skin "squeaky clean." If the skin feels tight, stings, or reddens severely after washing, this is usually not a sign of a good cleansing result.
Cleansing products use surfactants that help remove fats and dirt with water. Traditional alkaline soaps generally affect skin lipids and protein structures more than correctly formulated syndet-type cleansers with synthetic detergents.
However, not every syndet is automatically gentle. The effect depends on, among other things: the type of surfactants; their content; the pH of the product; the amount used; the duration of contact; the individual sensitivity of the skin.
The skin's reaction is the best indicator of a cleanser's suitability. If the skin remains comfortable after washing and does not immediately require cream due to severe tightness, the cleansing is likely in a suitable balance.
Moisturizer reduces dryness and supports skin comfort
Moisturizer is not just a product for dry skin. Oily or acne-prone skin may also need moisturizing, especially when drying or irritating medications and active ingredients are used.
Moisturizers can contain three basic types of ingredients. Humectants help bind water in the stratum corneum. These include, for example, glycerin and urea. Emollients soften the skin and partially fill irregularities between skin cells. These may include squalane, various oils, and lipids. Occlusive agents form a partially water-retaining layer on the skin and help reduce water evaporation.
Many creams combine all three types of substances. No specific ingredient is always the best for everyone. The effect of the finished product depends on the entire composition, the concentration of ingredients, the packaging, and how the specific skin tolerates the product.
In studies conducted on people with dry skin, consistent use of a gentle cleanser and moisturizer reduced skin dryness and improved participants' assessment of their skin condition. The result of one specific product system cannot be automatically transferred to all products on the market, but the general principle is reliable: consistent simple care is often more beneficial than constantly changing products.
Sun protection needs depend on UV radiation
Ultraviolet radiation contributes to skin photoaging and increases the risk of skin and eye damage.
The World Health Organization recommends using sun protection measures when the UV index is 3 or higher. Sun protection doesn't just mean cream. Important factors also include: shade; protective clothing; headwear; sunglasses; avoiding intense midday sun.
According to the European Commission's recommendation, a sunscreen product must provide protection against both UVB and UVA radiation. No sunscreen provides complete protection and should not be a reason to spend more time in the sun.
In a long-term randomized study, skin photoaging progressed less in people who used sunscreen daily compared to those who used the product at their discretion. The study was conducted in Australia, where the UV load is higher than in Estonia, but it shows the potential effect of consistent protection during long-term exposure.
What could a morning skincare routine look like?
1. Rinsing with water or gentle cleansing
The need for morning cleansing depends on the skin and the products used the previous evening. For dry or sensitive skin, rinsing with lukewarm water may be sufficient. For oilier skin, night sweating, or a rich night product, a gentle cleanser may be suitable.
2. Serum with a specific purpose
Serum is not a mandatory part of a morning routine. Add it only if the product has a clear purpose, such as reducing the feeling of dry skin, uneven skin tone, or excessive sebum production. If there is no specific need for the skin, this step can be skipped.
3. Moisturizer according to skin needs
Moisturizer helps reduce dryness and improve skin comfort. If the sunscreen product is sufficiently moisturizing for the skin, a separate morning cream may not be needed. For drier skin, a separate moisturizer may be suitable under sunscreen.
4. Sun protection according to UV radiation and exposure
Sun protection is added as the last step of the morning skincare routine if the UV index, duration of outdoor exposure, or individual risk requires it. Makeup is applied over the sunscreen.
Does the face need to be washed with a cleanser in the morning?
There is no universal rule. If the skin is dry, sensitive, or thoroughly cleansed in the evening, lukewarm water may be sufficient in the morning. If the skin is oilier, sweats at night, or a rich night product remains on the skin, a gentle cleanser may be more comfortable.
Sometimes a study is referenced that suggests washing the face twice a day. However, this study was conducted on people with mild to moderate acne. Based on this, it cannot be concluded that everyone should necessarily wash their face with a cleanser twice a day.
The decision can be made based on how the skin feels. If morning cleansing makes the skin drier or causes stinging, it's worth trying: a smaller amount; a gentler product; lower water temperature; rinsing with water only.
Is serum necessary?
No. Serum is useful if it has one clear purpose, such as: reducing the feeling of dry skin; supporting an uneven skin tone; reducing excessive sebum secretion; caring for acne-prone skin; reducing the visibility of signs of aging.
"Serum" primarily describes the form of the product, not its effectiveness.
For example, there are studies on ready-made products containing niacinamide that suggest a possible effect on the skin's protective barrier, sebum secretion, and the visibility of pigmentation. However, the results depend on the concentration used and the specific formulation.
The presence of an ingredient in the INCI list does not automatically prove that every product containing it will yield the same result. If the skin has no specific need, serum does not need to be added just to extend the routine.
Is a moisturizer needed under sunscreen?
Not always. If the sunscreen product is sufficiently moisturizing for the skin, it can replace the morning cream. For drier skin, a separate moisturizer may be suitable under sunscreen.
Too many layers can start to pill on the skin or make the sunscreen layer uneven. Therefore, more is not always better.
Sunscreen is applied as the last skincare step of the morning routine. Makeup is applied over it.
How much sunscreen to use?
The SPF protection indicated on the packaging is tested with an amount of 2 mg of product per square centimeter of skin.
According to the European Commission's recommendation, this corresponds to approximately six teaspoons of product for the average adult's entire body. If significantly less product is used, the actual protection level decreases.
The appropriate practical amount for the face depends on the product's composition and packaging. It is safest to follow the specific product's instructions for use and apply the product in an even layer to all exposed areas, including the ears and neck.
The product should be reapplied after: swimming; heavy sweating; towel drying; prolonged time outdoors.
Sunscreen does not replace shade, clothing, or reasonable time spent outdoors.
What could an evening skincare routine look like?
1. Removing makeup and waterproof sunscreen
A separate remover is primarily needed for heavy makeup or waterproof sunscreen. This can be an oil-, balm-, or other product that dissolves makeup and the sunscreen layer.
If no heavy makeup or waterproof sunscreen has been applied to the skin, a separate removal step may not be necessary.
2. Gentle cleansing
Cleansing removes dirt, sweat, sebum, and residue from care products that have accumulated on the skin during the day. Often, one suitable cleansing product is sufficient.
After cleansing, the skin should not feel severely tight, sting, or redden.
3. Active ingredient as needed
An active ingredient is an optional step. It is used according to a specific need, such as reducing uneven skin tone, acne-proneness, dryness, or the visibility of signs of aging.
A new active ingredient should be added one by one and with moderate frequency of use to assess skin tolerance.
4. Moisturizer
The evening routine concludes with a moisturizer if needed. The product's texture and richness depend on the skin's dryness, sensitivity, and previously used active ingredients. The same moisturizer can be used both morning and evening if it suits the skin at both times.
Is double cleansing necessary?
Double cleansing can be beneficial when heavy makeup or waterproof sunscreen is used. The first step usually involves an oil- or balm-based remover, and the second step a water-rinsable cleanser. However, this is not a mandatory daily ritual.
A small study on sunscreen removal found that one cleanser might be sufficient to remove regular sunscreen, while a cleansing oil more effectively removed waterproof sunscreen. The study does not indicate that all people should always double cleanse their skin.
If the skin feels clean and comfortable with one cleansing product, a second step is not needed. If double cleansing causes dryness, flaking, or stinging, the routine is likely too strong.
When to add an active ingredient?
An active ingredient is added according to a specific need, not because every skincare routine must necessarily include an "active step."
Common active ingredients include: niacinamide; azelaic acid; retinoids; alpha and beta hydroxy acids; vitamin C and its derivatives.
Their effects, usage, and irritation potential vary.
A new active ingredient should be started one by one and with moderate frequency of use. This way, it is possible to assess whether the product is suitable and which product causes a possible reaction.
Temporary mild stinging from a cosmetic product does not prove that the product works. Persistent burning, severe redness, itching, or flaking is a reason to discontinue use.
Do you need different creams for day and night?
Not necessarily. If the same moisturizer suits the skin in the morning and evening, it can be used at both times.
A separate night cream may be sensible if: dry skin needs a richer product in the evening; day cream contains sunscreen filters; a simpler moisturizer is better suited with the evening active ingredient.
The difference between day and night cream is often in texture and marketing placement, not in the biological requirement of the skin to necessarily use two jars.
In what order should skincare products be used?
The general order is: cleansing; liquid or gel target product; emulsion or cream; sunscreen in the morning; makeup if needed.
The commonly used recommendation "from thinnest to thickest" is a practical guideline, not an absolute rule.
Some concentrates are designed to be mixed with cream. Some active ingredients need to be applied to completely dry skin. For some products, you need to wait before adding the next layer. The specific product's instructions for use are more important than the general rule.
How to adjust the routine according to skin type?
Dry skin
For dry skin, it is sensible to reduce excessive cleansing and choose a sufficiently protective moisturizer.
A simple routine could be: rinsing with water in the morning; moisturizer; sun protection if needed; gentle cleansing in the evening; richer cream.
Glycerin, urea, squalane, ceramides, and occlusive agents can be beneficial in the composition.
Products containing ceramides can support the skin's protective barrier, but the presence of ceramides does not automatically mean that the product is better than other moisturizers. The result is determined by the finished formulation and consistent use.
Oily and blemish-prone skin
Oily skin does not need to be washed as dry as possible. Overly strong cleansers and frequent exfoliation can lead to a situation where the skin is both oily and irritated.
A suitable starting point is: a gentle cleanser; a light moisturizer; one well-chosen active ingredient; sun protection if needed.
Retinoids and benzoyl peroxide used in acne treatment can cause dryness and flaking. A suitable cleanser and moisturizer can reduce treatment-induced irritation and improve treatment tolerability. These do not replace acne treatment but support it.
Sensitive skin
"Sensitive skin" is not always a single, specific diagnosis. Stinging, burning, and redness can occur in otherwise healthy skin, but the same symptoms can be associated with rosacea, atopic dermatitis, or contact allergies.
It's worth starting with the simplest possible routine: lukewarm water or a gentle cleanser; a well-tolerated moisturizer; suitable sun protection.
New products are added one by one. If the skin often reacts to fragranced products, it is sensible to prefer fragrance-free options. The labels "natural," "pure," or "hypoallergenic" do not guarantee that the product will not cause irritation or allergies.
Combination skin
For combination skin, it is not always necessary to use a completely different routine on different parts of the face. Often, a light moisturizer for the entire face and a richer cream added to drier areas is sufficient.
An active ingredient can be used only on the more problematic area if the product's instructions allow it.
What mistakes most often cause problems?
Too many new products at once
If a cleanser, cream, and several serums are changed at once, it is impossible to figure out which product caused the irritation if it occurs. Start with one new product and observe the skin's reaction. In case of a strong reaction, there is no need to wait for weeks: discontinue using the product.
Over-cleansing
Tight-feeling skin after washing is not a sign of good cleansing. This may indicate that: the cleanser is too strong; too much is being used; the water is too hot; the skin is being washed too often.
Piling on active ingredients
Using multiple acids, retinoids, and strong serums in the same routine does not necessarily lead to faster results. It often increases the risk of irritation and makes it difficult to assess the effect of a specific product.
Too little sunscreen
The SPF number applies to the amount used during testing. A very thin layer does not provide the protection indicated on the package. Sunscreen does not replace shade, clothing, or limiting time in the sun.
Changing products too often
The suitability of a moisturizer can be understood relatively quickly, but changes in pigmentation, skin texture, and fine lines take longer. If a product is well tolerated, there's no reason to change it every few days. At the same time, you shouldn't tolerate severe irritation in the hope that the skin will eventually "get used to it."
Checklist before buying a new product
Before buying a new skincare product, it's worth considering the following questions.
What specific need do I want to address? A clear goal helps avoid buying unnecessary products with overlapping effects. If a product has no definite role in the routine, it may not be needed.
Is cleansing, moisturizing, and UV protection already in place? An active ingredient does not replace the basic steps of skincare. Before adding a new serum, acid, or other active product, it's worth checking if the existing basic routine works.
Is the same active ingredient already in another product? Using ingredients with the same or similar effects in multiple products can increase the risk of irritation without clear additional benefit.
Do the instructions for use suit my daily life? A product can only work if it is used consistently enough. A very complicated or inconvenient method of use can make the routine difficult to follow.
Can I start with only one new product? Starting with one product at a time helps to better identify which product caused it in case of possible irritation or other reaction.
Is the claim based on the finished product or just an ingredient? Research conducted on a single ingredient does not automatically prove the efficacy of the entire cosmetic product. A claim supported by relevant studies on the specific finished product is more reliable.
Does the skin feel comfortable after use? Persistent tingling, burning, itching, severe redness, or flaking are not desired outcomes. If such a reaction occurs, discontinue use of the product and, if necessary, consult a healthcare professional.
Frequently Asked Questions
Do I need to wash my face twice a day?
Not necessarily. For oily or acne-prone skin, gentle cleansing in the morning and evening may be suitable. Dry or sensitive skin may only need rinsing with water in the morning. Evening cleansing is more important if makeup or sunscreen has been used.
Is toner necessary?
No. Toner may contain moisturizing or other active ingredients, but it is not a mandatory part of the basic routine. If toner duplicates a serum or causes irritation, it can be safely omitted.
Can oil be used instead of cream?
Oil softens the skin and can reduce water loss, but it may not contain water or water-binding humectants. For very dry skin, oil is often better used on top of or mixed with cream than as a sole care product.
Is sunscreen needed in Estonia even in winter?
The need depends on the UV index, the duration of outdoor exposure, and individual risk. The World Health Organization recommends sun protection measures when the UV index is 3 or higher. In winter, the UV index in Estonia is often low, but snow, high mountains, sunny trips, and certain skin problems can increase the need for protection.
Is a more expensive skincare product better?
Not necessarily. In addition to the composition, price is influenced by packaging, brand, scent, texture, and marketing. More important is whether the product has a clear purpose in the routine, whether the skin tolerates it, and whether the product is used sufficiently and consistently.
How quickly should I see results?
Dryness and tightness may improve within days or weeks with the use of a suitable moisturizer. Pigmentation, skin texture, and fine lines change more slowly. If severe burning, itching, rash, or swelling occurs, discontinue use of the product.
When is cosmetics not enough?
You should consult a dermatologist or family doctor if you experience: painful or scarring acne; persistent or worsening redness; severe itching; recurring rash; cracked or bleeding skin; burning sensation that does not subside after simplifying the routine; a rapidly changing mole or pigment spot; a skin change that does not heal or whose cause is unclear. In such a situation, another cosmetic serum is not needed, but a diagnosis and, if necessary, treatment.
Summary
A good skincare routine does not have to be long. For most people, it is sufficient if: the skin is cleansed as needed; a suitable moisturizer is used; adequate sun protection is applied in case of UV radiation; active ingredients are added one by one and with a clear purpose.
The suitability of the routine is not indicated by the number of products or a strong tingling sensation. A suitable routine is one after which the skin feels comfortable and which can be followed consistently for months. Microorganisms living on the skin surface form a complex ecosystem, which you can read more about in the article "The Skin Microbiome – What Science Knows?"
Create a routine according to your skin's needs
Explore Eirene's skincare selection and check the intended use, composition, and suitability for your daily care for each product.
Sources
- Proksch E, Brandner JM, Jensen JM. The skin: an indispensable barrier. Experimental Dermatology, 2008.
- Ananthapadmanabhan KP et al. The impact of cleansers on the skin barrier and the technology of mild cleansing. Dermatologic Therapy, 2004.
- Draelos ZD. The science behind skin care: Cleansers. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2018.
- Lodén M. Role of topical emollients and moisturizers in the treatment of dry skin barrier disorders. American Journal of Clinical Dermatology, 2003.
- Kim S et al. A consistent skin care regimen leads to objective and subjective improvements in dry human skin. Clinical, Cosmetic and Investigational Dermatology, 2020.
- Hughes MCB et al. Sunscreen and prevention of skin aging: a randomized trial. Annals of Internal Medicine, 2013.
- Commission Recommendation 2006/647/EC on the efficacy of sunscreen products and related claims.
- World Health Organization. The ultraviolet index and Protecting against skin cancer.
- Choi JM et al. A randomized controlled trial of face-washing frequency in acne vulgaris. Pediatric Dermatology, 2006.
- Chen W et al. The optimal cleansing method for the removal of sunscreen. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2020.
- Gehring W. Nicotinic acid/niacinamide and the skin. Journal of Cosmetic Dermatology, 2004.